The Italian tailors: addresses and style details
The tailored suit according to the Milanese
In Milan, the dress must be clean, understatement, precise
and obviously handmade. The characteristics that distinguish a Milanese jacket
are the lower collar and therefore the shorter lapel, the shoulder is straight
and slightly padded, a more rigorous style than the Neapolitan style. Gray and
blue are the must. In the city, those who want an artfully made double-breasted
can go to Caraceni , the historical name of the tailor shop since the 1930s,
which has been able to pass the baton and love for this art from generation to
generation. Prata & Mistralis another name that often resonates among those
who love tailoring, the founder is of Neapolitan origin and can be seen from
the classic style with a modern and fun twist. Those who want to focus on a
perfect and absolutely classic suit will be spoiled for choice at Larusmian i,
the temple of Milanese tailoring.
Made in Florence tailoring
In the cradle of culture, Florence, the art of tailoring has
flourished since ancient times: it dates back to the Medici. We are also in the
homeland of Pitti. The characteristics that distinguish the Florentine
tailoring are the robust and balanced chest, with a low chest pocket, which
leads to a cone-shaped waist and a shorter than normal jacket bottom. A strong
name, indeed a very strong one, on the banks of the Arno is Liverano &
Liverano, which since the 1940s has been distinguished by its attention to
detail. Here the jackets are a real cult, they must be done strictly with a lined
pocket sewn on the fabric, oblique side and lapels ranging from 10 to 12 cm.
The Neapolitan tailoring
Unique and often identified as the "true" Italian tailoring is the Neapolitan one, the style here for men's suits has a very
strong identity and a thousand characteristics. Here the jacket must be light,
which is why the first characteristic is the absence of a lining or with a
"half-length" lining, the shoulder in suits falls soft, while in
informal pieces it is often a map or shirt, the pocket is a boat while the
pocket, often a pinata, the back slit is double and the shoulders are not
padded. There are several important tailors in Naples, but perhaps the most
famous is Rubinacci, who since the 1930s has dedicated herself to creating
clothes with precious and particular fabrics for the Neapolitan bourgeoisie.
Other important names is Gino Cimmino, artist of the complete true craftsman, a
more “pop” destiny for Kiton who was born as a tailor's shop and became a real
brand that brings the DNA of the Neapolitan style to the world.